El Dahar is the district where Hurghada was born: a former Red Sea fishing village, officially founded in 1905 according to most sources, before hotels began to line the coast from the 1980s. Today it is the most Egyptian part of the city: you come for the souk, the port, the mosque and the fish restaurants, not for the beach. Allow half a day.

Why come to El Dahar

Most travellers never leave their hotel and see only resort complexes of Hurghada. El Dahar shows the rest: residents doing their shopping, cafés where people play backgammon, prices nothing like those in the hotels. For a first immersion it is the simplest and cheapest visit in the city. To understand how the districts are laid out, first read where to stay in Hurghada.

A street in the old district of El Dahar

What to see

  • The old souk: spices, fabrics, souvenirs and bargaining. Come in the late afternoon.
  • The fish market: you choose your fish and have it cooked at a nearby stall.
  • The El Mina Mosque: the large white building by the port, open to visitors outside prayer times.
  • The Coptic church of Saint Shenouda, in the centre of the district, which can be seen from outside.
  • The centre of El Dahar: the minibus terminal and the shopping streets, to feel the town as its residents live it. See the El Dahar page.

Where to eat

The district is Hurghada's best place for fish and low-priced Egyptian food: koshari, ful, falafel (ta'amiya), grills, and grilled fish chosen at the stall. On traveller reviews, the fish restaurants near the El Mina Mosque come up regularly. Always ask the price per kilo before ordering and watch the fish being weighed; pay at the end, not in advance. Do not count on alcohol: most local restaurants do not serve it.

Practical tips

  • Dress: shoulders and knees covered, for women and men alike; a scarf is useful for the mosque.
  • Bargaining: no price is displayed. Start at around half the quoted price, stay smiling and do not hesitate to walk away.
  • Avoid nightfall: several guides advise not lingering in the alleys after dark; for the evening, prefer central Sakkala or the marina.
  • Money: carry small notes in Egyptian pounds; sellers rarely have change.
  • Getting around: a taxi from the hotel (price agreed before getting in) or a minibus to the El Dahar terminal; see our advice on scams to avoid in Hurghada.
  • Photos: ask before photographing a person.

The information in this guide comes from travel guides and traveller reviews; shop hours change and are not official.

A half-day itinerary

  1. Arrive in late morning at the fish market or the port, when the catch is fresh.
  2. Have lunch of grilled fish at a nearby stall.
  3. Visit the El Mina Mosque between two prayers.
  4. Finish at the souk, in the late afternoon, for shopping and a tea.

Going further

For a livelier evening, head to Sakkala; for the marina and the seafront walks, see the Hurghada marina. For a full day, follow what to do in Hurghada in one day.